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Historical and
cultural sites
Turkey's humanized landscape is inseparable from its
culture. Nevertheless, to the outsider, Turkey gives a new
meaning to wilderness, because even in the most inaccessible
or isolated parts (such as the high mountain tops or the
secret places in the valleys) the visitor remains with the
feeling that sometime in history this place, now wild and
untended, has been the home to civilizations with settled
villages and city life for nine thousand years in Anatolia.
These were people of different origin, coming in waves and
mingling with those already settled, each time creating a
new synthesis. Between 2000 B.C. to 1500 A.D., this
landscape was the center of world civilization.
Interpretation of the world scene today is predicated upon
our understanding of what took place on this landscape
during the last four millennia, and which is now manifested
in the ruins and monuments which adorn the landscape.
Up until the advent of modernity (which in Turkey is
associated with the comprehensive highway program of the
1950's) the landscape had remained as it was through
millennia. When you see a replica of one of the first
agrarian villages in the world, dating back to almost 7,000
B.C., in the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations in Ankara,
you cannot miss the similarity between this prototype and
all those others that you become what we call the vernacular.
When you have got something that works, why change it?
In Anatolia, the settlement pattern is more or less how it
was during the time of the ancient civilizations. There is a
good chance that the road you are traveling on is the same
one on which great warriors of the East and the West trod
and colorful caravans passed along, and couriers of mail or
secret treaties galloped. Perhaps it is the same road
traveled by St. Paul and his disciples or by Sufis spreading
divine knowledge. Perhaps Alexander the Great or King
Croesus fought against their enemies on the same spot you
are traveling.
Graceful aqueducts built by the Romans made urban
concentrations possible. Bridges built by Sinan and other
Ottoman architects dot the countryside and are still used
for the safe passage of goods and services. Caravanserais
dating back to the Seljuk Empire of the 11th century offered
sanctuary and relief to weary travelers. You can even stay
in a caravanserai, for several have been restored into
luxury hotels. Many Medresses are also in good conditions,
mostly used as museums today.
In addition to the historic edifices proudly displayed at
the main archaeological sites such as Assos, Troy, Pergamon,
Ephesus, Miletus, Priene, Didyma, Aphrodisias, Heraclia,
Myra, Olympus, Chimeira, Phaselis, Patara, Xantos, Pinara,
Tlos, Letoon, Halicarnassus, Cnidus, Hattusas, Alacahöyük,
Çatalhöyük, Yazilikaya, Nemrut, Zeugma, Psidian Antioch,
Nicea, Sardis, Gordion, Caunos, Labranda, Perge, and
Aspendos, many coastal villages and towns are blessed with
their very own Anatolian ruins on the outskirts. This is
usually an ancient theater commanding a spectacular view of
the beach where, the villagers will tell you, Cleopatra
often have swam. You don't have to look far for the agora
either. It is probably where it has always been - right at
the market place! Several villages are also privileged to
have ''sunken cities" (Kekova) or ruins under the sea, which
you can see if you look down into the crystal clear,
turquoise waters.
The Anatolian hinterland will show you glimpses of other
ancient civilizations: the Hattis, the Hurris, Assyrians,
the Hittites, the Phrygians, the Urartians, the Lydians and
the Lycians. From these civilizations come many familiar
legends: women warriors known as Amazons, the wealth of the
Lydian King Croesus, King Midas with the golden touch, and
the Knot of Gordion that young Alexander was able to undo
with the strike of his sword.
Then there are the lesser places, both sacred and ordinary,
but with profound meaning: monasteries, tombs of local
saints, heroes, artists or poets, mosques, churches, walls,
fortresses, palaces, fountains, and cemeteries. The
hillsides are covered with broken pieces of ancient pottery,
contemporary walls often have corner stones which may date
back to antiquity. Children play and sheep graze amidst
fragile remains. Until very recently Fairy Chimneys in
Cappadocia were used by villagers as cold storage for their
food or wine cellars.
The very richness of the landscape poses grave challenges
for historic preservation in Turkey. Good progress has been
made in safeguarding the integrity of the most important
sites, and work is ongoing to excavate, catalogue and
preserve the country's tremendous legacy. Strict laws
prevent the export of antiquities. |