|
TURKISH CUISINE
Nutritional habits are shaped
according to the prevalent cultural - geographical -
ecological - economic characteristics and features and the
historical process.
When one talks about the
Turkish cuisine, the term should be understood as the
totality of foods and beverages which provide nutrition to
the people living in Turkey, the ways of preparing and
preserving them; techniques, equipment and utensils required
for this, eating manners and all the practices and beliefs
which are developed around this cuisine.
The richness of variety
Turkish cuisine possesses is due to several factors. In
summary, the variety of products offered by the lands of
Asia and Anatolia, interaction with numerous different
cultures over a long historical process, the new tastes
developed in the palace kitchens of the Seljuk and Ottoman
empires have all played a part in shaping the new character
of our culinary culture.
Turkish Cuisine, which in general consists of sauced dishes
prepared with cereals, various vegetables and some meat,
soups, cold dishes cooked with olive oil, pastry dishes and
dishes made from wild vegetation has also produced a series
of health foods such as pekmez, yogurt, bulgur etc. The
eating habits which reflect the tastes changing from one
location to the next, gains a new meaning and near -
sacredness on special occasions, celebrations and
ceremonies.
Turkish Cuisine, while rich
in variety and taste-bud friendly, also contains examples
which could provide a source for healthy and balanced diets
and vegetarian cuisines.
Grilled
Meats
"Kebab"
is another category of food which, like the börek, is
typically Turkish dating back to the times when the nomadic
Turks learned to grill and roast their meat over their camp
fires. Given the numerous types of kebabs, it helps to
realize that you categorize them by the way the meat is
cooked. The Western World knows the "sis kebab" and the "döner"
introduced to them mostly by Greek entrepreneurs, who have a
good nose for what will sell! sis kebab is grilled cubes of
skewered meat. Döner kebab is made by stacking alternating
layers of ground meat and sliced leg of lamb on a large
upright skewer, which is slowly rotated in front of a
vertical grills. As the outer layer of the meat is roasted,
thin slices are shaved to be served.
There are numerous other
grilled kebabs beside those cooked in a clay oven. It should
be noted that the unique taste of kebabs are due more to the
breeds of sheep and cattle, which are raised in open
pastures by loving shepherds, than to special marinades and
a way of cooking. Therefore, you should stop at a kebab
restaurant in Turkey to taste the authentic item. "Kebabci"
is by far the most common and the least expensive type of
restaurant, ranging from a hole in the wall to large and
lavish establishments. Kebab is the traditional Turkish
response to fast food that is at the same time not
especially bad for you. A generic kebabci will have "lahmacun"
(meat pide) and "Adana" (spicy scewered ground meat, named
after the southern city where it was born), salad greens
with red onions and baklava to top it all off. Beyond that
the menu will tell you the speciality of the kebabci. The
best plan is to seek out the well-known ones and to try the
less spicy types if you are not used to kebab. Once you
develop a taste for it, you can have inexpensive feasts by
going to the neighborhood kebabci anywhere in Ankara or
Istanbul.
"Izgara"- mixed grilled meat,
it is how main course meat dishes are prepared at a meat
restaurant. Mixed grills are likely to include lamb chops, "kõfte,"
or "sis" (select cubes of meat). The way of preparing ground
meat will be the "köfte." These are grilled, fried,
oven-cooked or boiled, after being mixed with special
spices, eggs, and grated onions and carefully shaped into
balls, oblongs, round or long patties. Another popular dish,
inspired by the nomadic Turks who carried spiced, raw meat
in their saddles, and known to Europeans as "steak Tartar,"
is the raw kõfte. Here, it is made of raw double ground
meat, by kneading it with thin bulgur and hot spices
vigorously for a few hours. Then bite-sized patties are
made, and served with chilantro, known for its
stomach-protecting qualities. Some restaurants specialize
only in grilled meats, in which case they are called meat
restaurants. The fare will be a constant stream of grilled
meats served hot in portions off the grill, until you tell
the waiter that you are full. The best one is Beyti in
Florya, Istanbul, and the best way to get there is to take
the commuter train from Sirkeci, the main train station on
the European side, rather than negotiating the highway
traffic. This way you can also see the local folk,
especially the kids who seem to use the train to the
fullest, carrying out their summer holiday adventures
involving fishing and possibly a variety of other mischief.
Vegetables
Along
with grains, vegetables are also consumed in large
quantities in the Turkish diet. The simplest and most basic
type of vegetable dish is prepared by slicing a main
vegetable such as zucchini or eggplant, combining it with
tomatoes, green peppers and onions, and cooking it slowly in
butter and its own juices. Since the vegetables that are
cultivated in Turkey are truly delicious, a simple dish like
this, eaten with a sizeable chunk of fresh bread, is a
satisfying meal for many people.
A whole class of vegetables
is cooked in olive oil. These dishes would be third in a
five-course meal, following the soup and a main course such
as rice or börek and vegetable / meat, and before dessert
and fruit. Practically all vegetables, such as fresh
string-beans, artichokes, root celery eggplants, pinto
beans, or zucchini can be cooked in olive oil, and are
typically eaten at room-temperature. So they are a staple
part of the menu with variations depending on the season.
Then there are the fried vegetables, such as eggplant,
peppers or zucchinis, that are eaten with a tomato or a
yogurt sauce.
"Dolma" is the generic term
for stuffed vegetables, being a derivative of the verb "doldurmak"
or "to fill," it actually means "stuffed" in Turkish. There
are two categories of dolmas: those filled with a meat mix
or with a rice mix. The latter are cooked in olive oil and
eaten at room-temperature. The meat dolma is a main-course
dish eaten with a yogurt sauce, and a very frequent one in
the average household. Any vegetable which can be filled
with or wrapped around these mixes can be used in a dolma,
including zucchini, eggplants, tomatoes, cabbage, and
grapevine leaves. However, the green pepper dolma with the
rice stuffing, has to be the queen of all dolmas. A royal
feast to the eye and the palate...
In addition to these general
categories, there are numerous meat and vegetable dishes
which feature unique recipes. When talking vegetables, it is
important to know that the eggplant (or aubergine) has a
special place in the Turkish Cuisine. This handsome
vegetable with its brown-green cap, velvety purple, firm and
slim body has a richer flavor than that of its relatives
found elsewhere. At a party a frustrating question to ask a
Turk would be "How do you usually cook your eggplant? A
proper answer to this question would require hours!
Here, too, it will have to
suffice to mention two eggplant dishes that are a must to
taste. In one, the eggplant is split lengthwise and filled
with a meat mix. This is a common summer dish, eaten with
white rice pilaf. The other one is "Her Majesty's Favorite,"
a delicate formal dish that is not easy to make but well
worth trying. The name refers to Empress Eugenie, the wife
of Napoleon III, who fell in love with it on her visit to
Sultan Abdülaziz. To taste these dishes, look for a "Lokanta."
Borrowed from the Italian "Locanda," the type of
establishment where traditional cooking is prepared most
usually for those who work nearby The best examples are the
Borsa, Haci Salih, and Konyali in Istanbul and Liman and
Çiftlik in Ankara. The tables are covered with white linen,
and the menu comprises soups, traditional main dishes and
desserts, including fresh fruit. Businessmen and politicians
frequently visit these places for lunch.
"Meze"
Dishes to Accompany the Spirits
In
Turkey, despite the Islamic prohibition against wine and
anything alcoholic, there is a rich tradition associated
with liquor. Drinking alcoholic beverages in the company of
family and friends both at home and in taverns and
restaurants, is a part of special occasions. Similar to the
Spanish tapas, "meze" is the general category of dishes that
are brought in small quantities to start the meal off. These
are eaten, along with wine or more likely with "raki", the
anise-flavored national drink of Turks sometimes referred to
as "lion's milk," for a few hours until the main course is
served.
The
bare minimum meze for raki are slices of honeydew melons and
creamy feta cheese with freshly baked bread. Beyond these, a
typical meze menu includes dried and marinated mackerel,
fresh salad greens in thick yogurt sauce with garlic, plates
of cold vegetable dishes cooked or fried in olive oil, fried
crispy savory pastry deep fried mussels and calamaris served
in sauce, tomato and cucumber salad, and fish eggs in sauce.
The main course that follows such a meze spread will be fish
or grilled meat.
When the main course is
kebab, then the meze spread is different. In this case,
several plates of different types of minced salad greens and
tomatoes in spicy olive oil, mixed with yogurt or cheese,
"humus" chick peas mashed in tahini, bulgur and red lentil
balls, "raw köfte," marinated stuffed eggplant, peppers with
spices and nuts, and pickles, are likely to be served.
Sea Food
Four
seas (the Black Sea, Marmara Sea, the Aegean, and the
Mediterranean) surround the Turkish landscape, and residents
of the coastal cities are experts in preparing their fish.
However, the best of the day's catch is also immediately
transported to Ankara, where some of the finest fish
restaurants are located. Winter is the premium season for
eating fish. That is the time when many species of fish
migrate from the Black Sea to the warmer waters and when
most fish reach their mature sizes. So, the lack of summer
vegetables is compensated by the abundance of fish at this
time. Every month has its own preferred fish, along with
certain vegetables which complement the taste. For example,
the best bonito is eaten with arugula and red onions, blue
fish with lettuce, turbot with cos lettuce. Large bonito may
be poached with celery root. Mackerel is stuffed with
chopped onion before grilling, and summer fish, which are
younger and drier, will be poached with tomatoes and green
peppers, or fried. Bay leaves always accompany both poached
and grilled fish. Grilling fish over charcoal, where the
fish juices hit the embers and envelope the fish with the
smoke, is perhaps the most delicious way of eating mature
fish, since this method brings out the delicate flavor. This
is also why the grilled fish and bread sold by vendors right
on their boats are so tasty. "Hamsi" is the prince of all
fish known to Turks : the Black Sea people know forty-one
ways of making hamsi including hamsi börek, hamsi pilaf and
hamsi dessert!
Another common seafood is the
mussel eaten deep fried, poached, or as a mussel dolma and
mussel pilaf. Along the Aegean, octopus and calamary are
added to the meze spread.
The
places to taste fish are fish restaurants and taverns. Not
all taverns are fish restaurants, but most fish restaurants
are taverns and these are usually found on the harbors
overlooking the sea. The Bosphorus is famous for its
fisherman's taverns, large and small, from Rumeli Kavagi to
Kumkapi. The modest ones are small with wooden tables and
rickety wooden chairs, nevertheless they offer delicious
grilled fish. Then there are elaborate, fashionable ones in
Tarabya and Bebek. The fish restaurants always have an
open-air section taking up space right by the sea; the
waiters run back and forth between the kitchen, perhaps
located within the restaurant across the street, and the
tables on the seaside. After being seated, it is customary
to visit the kitchen or the display to pick your fish and
discuss the way you want it to be prepared. The price of the
fish is also disclosed at this time. Then you swing by the
meze display and order the ones you want. So the evening
begins, sipping raki in between samplings of meze, watching
the sunset, and slowly setting the pace for conversation
that will continue hours into the night. Drinking is never a
hurried, loud, boisterous, or a lonely affair. It is a
communal, gently festive and cultured way of entertainment.
In these fish restaurants, a couple of families may spend an
evening with their children running around the restaurant
after they are fed, while the teenagers sit at the table
patiently listening to the conversation and occasionally
participating, when the topic is soccer or rock music.
The Real
Story of Sweets: Beyond Baklava
The
most well-known sweets associated with Turkish Cuisine are
Turkish Delight, and "baklava," giving the impression that
these may be the typical desserts eaten after meals. This,
of course, is not true. Firstly the family of desserts is
much richer than these two. Secondly these are not typical
desserts as part of a main meal. For example, baklava and
its relatives are usually eaten with coffee, as a snack or
after a kebab dish. Let us now look at the main categories
of sweets in the Turkish Cuisine.
By far, the most common
dessert after a meal is fresh seasonal fruit that acquire
their unique taste from an abundance of sun and
old-fashioned ways of cultivation and transportation. Spring
will start with strawberries, followed by cherries and
apricots. Summer is marked by peaches, watermelons and
melons; then, all kinds of grapes ripen in late summer,
followed by green and purple figs, plums, apples, pears and
quince. Oranges, mandarin oranges, and bananas are among the
winter fruits. For most of the spring and summer, fruit is
eaten fresh. Later, it may be used fresh or dried, in
compotes, or made into jams and preserves. Among the
preserves, the unique ones to taste are the quince
marmalade, the sour cherry preserve, and the rose preserve
(made of rose petals, which is not a fruit! ).
The most wonderful
contribution of Turkish Cuisine to the family of desserts,
that can easily be missed by casual explorers, are the milk
desserts - the "muhallebi" family These are among the rare
types of guilt-free puddings made with starch and rice
flour, and, originally without any eggs or butter. When the
occasion calls for even a lighter dessert, the milk can also
be omitted; instead, the pudding may be flavored with citrus
fruits, such as lemon or orange. The milk desserts include a
variety of puddings, ranging from the very light and subtle
pudding with rose-water to the milk pudding with strands of
chicken breast.
Grain-based
desserts include baked pastries, fried yeast-dough pastries
and the pan-sautéed desserts. The baked pastries can also be
referred to as the baklava family. These are paper-thin
pastry sheets that are brushed with butter and folded,
layered, or , rolled after being filled with ground
pistachios, walnuts or heavy cream, and then baked. Then a
syrup is poured over the baked pastries. The various types,
such as the sultan, the nightingale's nest, or the twisted
turban differ according to the amount and placement of nuts,
size and shape of the individual pieces, and the dryness of
the final product.
The "lokma" family is made by
frying soft pieces of yeast dough in oil and dipping them in
a syrup. Lady's lips, lady's navel, and vizier finger are
fine examples.
"Helva" is made by
pan-sautéing flour or semolina and pine nuts in butter
before adding sugar, and milk or water, and briefly cooking
until these are absorbed. The preparation of helva is
conducive to communal cooking. People are invited for "helva
conversations" to pass the long winter nights. The more
familiar tahini helva is sold in blocks at a corner grocery
shop.
Another dessert that should
be mentioned is a piece of special bread cooked in syrup,
topped with lots of walnuts and heavy cream. This is
possibly the queen of all desserts, so plan to taste it at
the Ikmal Restaurant on the Ankara-Izmir highway at Afyon.
There are shops where
baklava, börek, or muhallebi are sold, exclusively or in
combination. People come to these places for take-away or to
sit down at one of the few tables tucked in a corner of the
store. The baklava stores also usually feature "water börek",
an especially difficult börek to make. Most börek shops also
make milk puddings. These are excellent places to eat
breakfast or lunch at any time of the day since the regular
restaurants may stop serving at two o'clock in the
afternoon. Many pudding shops also serve chicken soup. In
any event, it is possible to feast on börek and milk pudding
for an entire holiday if on a tight budget. Perhaps the most
well-known shop of this type is Saray on Istiklal street in
Beyoglu-Istanbul, in addition to the entire village of
Sariyer on the Bosphorus.
You have to be in Turkey to
get the real and the best taste of the above desserts.
However, in addition to the variety of Turkish Delights,
there is a lesser-known type of dessert that can be taken
back home in a sweet box. These are nut pastes - marzipan
made of almonds and pistachios. The best marzipan is sold at
a tiny unassuming shop in Bebek in Istanbul. A few boxes
usually will last for a month or so and bring delight after
dinners. Finally candied chestnuts, a speciality of Bursa,
are among the most wonderful nutty desserts.
Beverages:
Beyond Turkish Coffee and "Ayran"
Volumes
have been written about the Turkish coffee; its history
significance in social life, and the ambiance of the
ubiquitous coffee houses. Without some understanding of this
background, it is easy to be disappointed by the tiny brew
with the annoying grounds, which an uninitiated traveler
(like Mark Twain) may accidentally end up chewing. A few
words of caution will have to suffice for the purposes of
this brief primer. First, the grounds are not to be
swallowed; so, sip the coffee gingerly Secondly don't expect
a caffeine surge with one shot of Turkish coffee, it is not
"strong," just thick. Third, remember that it is the setting
and the company that matters - the coffee is just an excuse
for the occasion...
Tea, on the other hand, is
the main source of caffeine for the Turks. It is prepared in
a special way, by brewing it over boiling water and served
in delicate, small, clear glasses to show the deep red color
and to keep it hot. Drinking tea is such an essential part
of a working day that any disruption of the constant supply
of fresh tea is a sure way to sacrifice productivity Once
upon a time, so the story goes, a lion escaped from the
Ankara Zoo and took up residence in the basement of an
office building. It began devouring public servants and
executives. It even ate up a few ministers of state and
nobody took notice. It is said that a posse was immediately
formed when the lion caught and ate the "tea-man," the
person responsible for the supply of fresh tea!
A
park without tea and coffee is inconceivable in Turkey Thus,
every spot with a view has a tea-house or a tea-garden.
These places may be under a simple tree looking into the
village or town square, on top of hills with majestic views
of a valley or the sea, by the harbor, in the market, on a
road-side with a scenic overview by a waterfall or in the
woods. Among the typical tea-gardens in Istanbul are: the
Emirgan on the European side, Çamlica on the Anatolian side
of the Bosphorus, the famous Pierre Loti cafe, and the
tea-garden in Üsküdar. But the traditional tea-houses are
beginning to disappear from the more tourist-oriented
seaside locations, in favor of "pubs" and "Biergarten"...
Among the beverages worth
mentioning are excellent bottled fruit juices. But, perhaps
the most interesting drink is "boza", traditionally sold in
neighborhood streets by mobile vendors on a winter night.
This is a thick, fermentated drink made of wheat berries, to
be enjoyed with a dash of cinnamon and a handful of roasted
chick-peas. Boza can also be found year-round at certain
cafes or dessert shops. Finally, "sahlep" is a hot drink
made with milk and sahlep powder. It is a good remedy for
sore throats and colds, in addition to being delicious. |